The River Valley is a culture distinct from Roswell. When I first moved here, I didn’t like it much. I thought perhaps it was too close to Texas, and I had silly prejudices against Texas culture. Now that I’ve spent a good bit of time in West Texas, I’ve come to the conclusion that Roswell is its own culture. Like most of New Mexico, it is (largely) composed of people who do whatever they want; however, they are the red version of this Wild West mentality, while the River Valley is blue. I always found the quietly rebellious people who vote for blue politicians to be an odd cultural mix, but that is a common attitude in New Mexico. There will be people who protest this aspersion, who claim that most people here are collectivists who do their government’s bidding, and I suppose that is more frequently the case now than it ever was. That is the end result of public school education, unfortunately. The more traditional attitude of New Mexicans is summed up in a conversation I had with a young New Mexican woman who used to babysit my children:
“My ‘buelito just got a deer,” she said.
“Oh, nice, I wish we could go hunting. I wonder what it costs to get a tag.”
“I don’t know. He never gets one. He just goes hunting.”
Being an agreeable libertarian at the time, I said, “I don’t believe the government should regulate hunting and fishing. The federal government stole huge swaths of land and now forces us to pay to use it.”
“There should be laws because otherwise people who don’t need to hunt will just kill anything and be wasteful.”
“But your grandpa doesn’t follow the laws.”
“It’s okay that we don’t because we’re really poor. We don’t waste it.”
“So, the laws are only for some people and not others?”
“You just have to know how to not get caught.” She shrugged. That was her final answer.
You see, people in New Mexico are like Hobbits in the Shire. The Hobbit doesn’t want to leave his Shire, and I very much doubt he would take kindly to being told he couldn’t hunt or fish without permission. On the other hand, Hobbits don’t like making waves, so they are quiet about any rebellions. Nowhere is this more pronounced than in the people of the Rio Grande valley. It’s a beautiful valley — who would want to leave it? I certainly didn’t until Lujan-Grisham demonstrated what it really means to live in a blue state: baby killing up until birth and shut-downs that make little sense unless the government is trying to destroy the economy and create more dependence. Also, since Lujan-Grisham came into power, the homeless rate, which used to be one of the lowest in the nation, has skyrocketed. That is not to mention that in a desperate attempt to gain control of the Southeastern area, she gerrymandered so that roughly half of our congressional districting is now with Santa Fe. She did that in Socorro County, as well, which is mostly rural and hence more conservative.
All that griping aside (Texas sounds really amazing at this point), I’m still in love with my hometown of Socorro. That is where my inheritance property is, that is where my parents live, and that’s generally where I go for Christmas now that I’ve been relegated to Roswell. This last Christmas was no different, except that we had to stay in a hotel due to my mother-in-law adding an extra person (my parents have a very small adobe house). It was a pleasant Christmas with all my children and son-in-law to be (my eldest is engaged). Aside from the splendid view of the valley and mesas from my parents’ house, the best part of the trip was going to midnight Mass at the Old San Miguel mission. I’ve written before about this church, which is a treasure that doesn’t get the acclaim the old churches in Santa Fe and Albuquerque get. On Christmas Eve, candalarias grace the old plaza and park, and then light a path all the way to the old church. This tradition goes together with Las Posadas, as the candles are meant to provide light to the weary travelers, Mary and Joseph and the Christ child in Mary’s womb.
Las Posadas, however, occurs every evening from the 16th to the 24th of December, and it’s a kind of traveling Nativity play, in which Mary and Joseph go from house to house looking for a place to stay. Many churches have the final play at the church building before the midnight Mass. Las Posadas can be elaborate or simple — in the case of San Miguel this year, it was simple, with only a call and response from parishioners inside and outside the church. Covid has destroyed many elaborate traditions, sadly, and I wonder when they will return to normal. Las Posadas is, naturally, a Spanish tradition, and I relished the opportunity to sing in Spanish. I do this quite regularly; I wonder if someday, when I’m in a situation where I have to speak Spanish, if I will be more comfortable breaking into song: I’m sorry, I’m like Selena. I can only sing in Spanish. Except that I’m an Anglo. And I’m old and not gorgeous (if she had not been murdered, she would be older than I am, though. How heartbreaking. She might have had children and grandchildren by now). So just like, except…
After a quiet Christmas with my family, my husband and I decided we needed some time away to soak in the hot springs in T or C. T or C is along the trail from Santa Fe down to El Paso, albeit, it is a strange town. Its culture is different from the rest of New Mexico. You see, it had a heyday with Hollywood back in the forties and fifties, before being abandoned by that fickle set, leaving the town capsuled in its prime. Many of the hotel and spas there are what you might call shabby chic owing to the forties and fifties decor, with many old tubs still flaunting their original tile. We stayed in such a place, called the Pelican. The room we rented would make a nice vacation spot with its courtyard, its kitchen and reading room. Its bathroom was simply awful and a bit of a deal breaker. I am very thin and could barely fit between the toilet and sink. I can’t imagine anyone able to reach the shower for cleaning. That is the kind of oddity you find with shabby-chic.
I have many memories of T or C; it’s about an hour south of Socorro, but just under an hour, whereas Albuquerque is just over an hour to the north. We used to take the family to soak at the Riverbend, which I still highly recommend, although it is no longer family friendly because the new owners want to maintain a relaxing, meditative space. I also wrote my book Anna and the Dragon there, in the Charles Motel, which is yet another shabby-chic enclave with old soaking tubs. My husband and I have also stayed in the Firewater Lodge for an anniversary. That particular lodge has been completely revamped and was more chic than shabby.
We enjoyed our stay there, but it didn’t come without sadness. The town has always been down-at-heel, but it seemed more that way post Covid than it had in the past. For example, what few restaurants they used to have available were not open. It was difficult to tell, due to the general shabbiness, whether they were closed permanently or closed for Christmas — even though we went the week after. For a tourist town with hot springs, it seems short sighted for businesses to close that week, but we still concluded that it was probably a little of both. Almost no eateries did not keep tourists out; we had trouble finding a room, as we booked at the last minute. And we certainly were too late to soak at the Riverbend. We had to settle for the Pelican tubs. They aren’t terrible. They’re indoors, unlike Riverbend, which has gradient outdoor tubs that have a view of the river. By gradient, I mean they make use of downard water flow to regulate the temperature of the water. The hottest is at the top, the coolest at the bottom.
We are, of course, back in Roswell now. It is pleasant and sunny. The temperatures that didn’t rise above thirty last week have become more temperate. Outsiders are often surprised that you don’t need a passport to visit the Land of Enchantment; they are also often surprised that it can be well below freezing here in the winter. New Mexico, the Rio Grande valley, Roswell — they are the Land of Contradictions. Maybe the contradictions also make it enchanting. Hard to say. When I was back in my office at the church on Thursday, a local man regaled me with true tales of Big Foot and aliens. He is also one of the most devout Catholics I have ever met.